Planting

·      Tree Selection Criteria

·      Match trees to existing conditions of desired location for best results.

·      Size – Clearance to nearby buildings, trees and other objects for MATURE tree size.

·      Soil type – Clay/Sand/Rocky.  Deep soil or shallow.

·      Sun exposure – Full sun/Part Shade/Shade.

·      Moisture and Drainage – Dry, Average, or Moist/Poor Drainage.

·      When to Plant

·      Generally, planting native trees from October through February allows roots to become established before the next growing season.  Container-grown plants may be planted in the spring, provided extra water is applied as needed during hot, dry spells.  Rootmakerä-grown  trees, especially understory  trees (i.e. shade to part-shade), may be planted any time, provided watering is adequate.

·      Planting Hole Preparation

·      Dig a conical-shaped hole with a flat bottom. A flat-bottomed inverted pyramid is even better, as the “corners” of the hole promote root spread.  A flat spade is the best tool for the job.

·      Depth – About 1" less than the height of the root ball.

·      Diameter or width – Equal to the root ball at the bottom of the hole.  Leave adjacent soil undisturbed to promote normal capillary action of the soil, bringing below-ground moisture to the root ball.

·      Check drainage by filling hole with water. If hole has not drained in 24 hours, drainage is adequate only for bog-type plants.  This process has the advantage of assuring that the earth surrounding the root ball is moist before planting.

·      Positioning the tree

·      Gently remove the tree from the container by pressing or tapping on the sides and bottom of the container, being careful not to disturb the root ball.  With Rootmaker containers, it is not necessary or desirable to spread roots as with ordinary containers.

·      Place the tree in the hole and straighten to a vertical position.

·      Backfill with original soil from the hole (no rocks), crumbling clods so the hole is filled as evenly as possible.  DO NOT PACK SOIL!

·      Water liberally to settle the soil around the root ball.  Add soil to refill cavity around root ball.

·      Mulching

·      Remove grass and weeds to about 3’ diameter around the tree.

·      Create a watering saucer using leftover dirt from the hole.

·      Fill the watering saucer with wood chips or similar loose organic matter, but pull the mulch away from the trunk.

·      Watering

·      After planting, it is essential to assure that the root ball AND THE SURROUNDING SOIL have adequate moisture.

·      Subsequent watering is highly dependent on weather conditions, as well as the type of soil and the moisture preferences of the tree you have selected.  The following are general guidelines, but NEVER allow the root zone to dry completely or to remain soaked for extended periods.

·      In the absence of rain, slow-soak the planting once a week for the first month after planting.

·      October – March: In the absence of rain, slow-soak the planting once a month.

·      April – September: In the absence of rain, slow-soak the planting once a week.

·      Care of Newly-Planted Tree

·      Stake tree if necessary to keep it upright and straight.

·      First Year: Remove only dead, diseased or damaged limbs.  Retain lower leaves and branches to nourish the lower trunk area.

·      Second year: Prune for structure, removing narrow-crotch limbs, “crossing” branches, excessively large lower limbs and those competing with leader.  When pruning a branch, cut just outside the “collar”, where the branch joins the trunk.

·      Subsequent years: Prune for shape, appearance and balance.

·      Keep area around base of tree free of grass to avoid damage from mowers and string trimmers.

·      Feed tree annually with 1” of manure compost, spread in the “drip” area of the canopy.  Replenish mulch and expand area of mulch coverage beyond the drip line.

·      Slow-soak “drip” area during any extended period (8 weeks) without significant rain.  Soak to at least 5” depth.